Where to Eat in Buenos Aires
These are notes from my meanderings through the BA food scene over the last 10 years or so.
Note that most of these are places that have been around for quite a while, i.e., they are much more "classic" & "traditional".
You'll find any amount of hipster cuisine around, but then again, you'll find that pretty much anywhere in the world :-)
FOOD
Parillada/Steakhouse
El Trapiche (Paraguay 5099). A very very typical parillada. Not as refined as La Brigada, but just about as good, with what is quite probably the best pork flank that you'll ever get
Italian
(which is, other than grilled steak, *the* cuisine in BA)
Guido's bar (Republica de la India 2843 in Palermo). Despite the name, its not a bar, but actually restaurant, with a bit of a twist. Basically, you go there, they feed you whatever they've made.
Its stunningly good stuff - you have no choice, but you can say stuff like "I dont eat fish", etc. At the end, they basically charge you what is apparently a completely random number (which still is ridiculously inexpensive :-)
Oh, do not go to Guido's Resto. Its Guido's Bar that you wnt...
Sette Bacco (Aguero 2157 y Pena, Recoleta 4808-0021). Romantic, authentically Italian, mellow, and smallish, its a restaurant with brilliant seafood (king crab! mmmm!).
Peruvian
Contigo Peru (Echeverria 1627) - Peruvian? In BA? Well, yes, really. And quite good at that too. Ok, the wine list isn't the best, or even particularly good, but then again, the food is actually remarkably good, the service is friendly, its quite inexpensive, and seriously, I'm not damning this with faint praise (if it made the list, its worth going to)
Filo (San Martin 975 ph: 4311-0312 in Centro) Arguably the finest Pizza you'll ever have. Really. Its a bit touristy, but in the strange dynamic of existence that is Buenos Aires, that doesn't diminish what it is still, quite probably, the best pizza in Buenos Aires (and, ergo, probably The Americas. NY Included). For something truly special, ask for the Alle Patate (potato & rosemary pizza). Trust me, just get it...
Fine Dining
Tomo (Carlos Pelligrini 521. 4326-6695) Its a bit of a weird category, but the general idea being that is is all about spectacular (but mellow) service, in a brilliant old-world setting, with glorious food, and a warm and truly welcoming atmosphere
Dora (Avenida Leandro N. Alem 1016) Its pretty low-key, but very, very authentic. They've mastered the elusive ability to make things the same way for 50 years, but have people keep coming back because it is just that damn good.
Ice Cream (Gelato / Helados)
Persicco . They're all over the place, and it is, by far (far) the best Helados I've ever had.
Fredo. Will do in a pinch, when you're not near a Persicco but if you have the time, go find a Persicco
Misc
Miranda (Costa Rica 5602) - Kind of "default Argentinian, which means the menu is basically eclectic. What it also means is that you'll get steak, but it isn't a parillada, you'll get pastas, but it isnt Italian, you'll get seafood, but it isnt a seafood joint. In short, kind of a generic restaurant, but then again, its what most places in BA are like. This, however, is one of the better ones
Campobravo (Honduras 5600) - Another "default" Argentinian, with a lounge-y vibe to it. Good music, nice people-watching, and the food is excellent. A touch pricier than normal, but still...excellent.
BoBo Hotel (Guatamela 4882). Another "default" Argentinian. Mind you, just about as good as Miranda.
Crizia (5143 Goritti). Yet another "default" Argentinian, with the added attraction that it is in Palermo Hollywood, and consequently kinda hip/stylish. Mind you, great food too :-)
BARS
Cafe Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 829) Ancient ancient coffee-house. You must go here for an espresso (or cortado). Its like stepping back in time (or going to Cuba!)
Grand Bar Danzon (Libertad 1161) - Its been near the top of the BA bar scene about as long as I can think. Great people watching, unbelievable wine list, and wacky cocktails. The food is, believe it or not, great. Did i mention the wine list? Its worth checking it out for the wine list alone...
HANGING OUT
Wander over to Plaza Serrano (Intersection of Honduras/Serrano . Its basically the heart of Palermo Hollywood. Fun boutiques, stores, bars, restaurants, people, kids, hipsters, etc. It'll give you a good sense of the area/place/culture.
NOTE
- Take in a Tango show. Somewhere. Anywhere. It is...mind-expanding (and if you can somehow manage to make it to La Catedral (it opens after midnight), do it for a good take on the underground/hipster tango scene in BA
- Stay away from the restaurants in Puerto Madero, regardless of what people say. The restaurants are really good, but you can get as good, if not better, pretty much everywhere else in the city. (Note!!! I *mean* this! Do *NOT* go here!!!! Doesn't matter how much people wax poetic about Cabanas Las Lilas, it Just Isn't Worth The Money)
- Don't get cappucino's after noon.
- Watch out for the espressos - they're potent.
- If you want to feel really local, ask for a Cortado (espresso w/ shot of milk/cream)
- As long as you aren't in a touristy place (i.e., Puerto Madero), the food is almost guaranteed to be great. The ones above are just the high points of the places I've been.)
- If you can read spanish, check out www.guiaoleo.com. It is the local equiv of the nymag.com restaurant guide.
- If you can speak spanish, talk to the waiters before ordering. Discuss whats good and whats not. You can spend hours talking food with - they are food mad, as are all good Italians
- Argentinians worship three things above all else - Tango, Football, and Dulce de Leche. You can poke fun at these, but only (*only*) if it is really, really apparent that you are kidding, and that you really deeply do care about it as much as they do :-) That said, the Dulce de Leche is almost frighteningly addictive. Come to think of it, after dinner, if/when discussing dessert (and why wouldn't you?), the quality of the dulce-de-leche is definitely a factor in what you get. It is not unheard of for the waiter to recommend you not get dessert because "The Dulce de Leche is not good"
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