Where to eat in Emilia-Romagna
RESTAURANTS BY CITY
Bologna
Trattoria Bertozzi (via Andrea Costa 84/2) +39.051.6141425 [Closed Sunday]
All'Osteria Bottega (via Santa Caterina 51) +39.051.585111
Ristorante Ciacco (via San Simone 1/c) +39.051.265441 [closed Friday & Lunch on Saturday]Its in the basement of an old Jewish house (the area used to be the Jewish Ghetto back when).
The place is somewhat upscale (not terribly so, but this isn't really your "local trattoria"), but the food is excellent.
A review here, and pictures from one of our visits here
Enoteca Italiana (via Marsala 2)
It's a wine shop, and a wine bar, all rolled in one. You can go in and buy your wines, or, just have a glass (or heck, a bottle!). Exceptional selection, friendly staff, and a wonderful place...
Liccu Golosità Siciliana (Via Camillo Ranzani 13b. Check the hours!) +39.051.498.3707
The 10 minute walk from the centro is worth it - amazing Sicilian/catanese food, granita in the summer, arancini all the time, and some of the best desserts you can find in the case by the door. Seriously just amazing...
The 10 minute walk from the centro is worth it - amazing Sicilian/catanese food, granita in the summer, arancini all the time, and some of the best desserts you can find in the case by the door. Seriously just amazing...
Medulla Vini (Via Guglielmo Oberdan 14/b.) +39.349.009.4427
A little crowded wine bar which focuses on natural/organic/bio wines. Bunch of seating outside, ideal to sit, enjoy a glass of wine, and watch the world go by. Oh, and yes, great wine selections!
Trattoria Meloncello (via Saragozza 240/A) +39.051.6143947 [open daily - make reservations! and then confirm it!)
A Slow-Food trattoria next to the football stadium, it is remarkably old-school, and about as authentic as it gets (then again, its all authentic, this is just very, very local). Don't expect anything fancy - there is no menu, just the usual Bolognese regulars and the occasional special. But its good, very good, and on our regular rotation of places to eat at when we're there.
And yes, the Gramigna is my favorite in Bologna!
A few pictures here.
Al Sangiovese (Via Paglietta 12) +39.051.583057 [ close Sunday]
Small,
and a bit out of the way (close to the viale south of Piazza Maggiore),
it has all the usual Bolognese classics (excellent, btw), but its the
specials that make this destination dining. The risotto sangiovese, for example, has little chunks of lardo di Colonata in it, and is rockingly good :-)
A little crowded wine bar which focuses on natural/organic/bio wines. Bunch of seating outside, ideal to sit, enjoy a glass of wine, and watch the world go by. Oh, and yes, great wine selections!
Trattoria Meloncello (via Saragozza 240/A) +39.051.6143947 [open daily - make reservations! and then confirm it!)
A Slow-Food trattoria next to the football stadium, it is remarkably old-school, and about as authentic as it gets (then again, its all authentic, this is just very, very local). Don't expect anything fancy - there is no menu, just the usual Bolognese regulars and the occasional special. But its good, very good, and on our regular rotation of places to eat at when we're there.
And yes, the Gramigna is my favorite in Bologna!
A few pictures here.
Al Sangiovese (Via Paglietta 12) +39.051.583057 [ close Sunday]
Osteria Santa Caterina (via Santa Caterina 43a)
One of the best places to have salumi in Bologna. Sit in the garden in the back, or better yet, sit at the small counter in the front and watch the master at work. The food is pretty much as delicious too, for the few times you don't fill up on salumi. And, if you have the appetite for a bottle of wine, they have one of the better collections of wines out there...
Classic Slow Food. There is a menu (an english one too, if you want it), but, basically, just ask your host what he's got. Its pretty much the standard set of Bolognese specialities, but they're impeccably done. Do note that, more so than in other places, you'll need a reservation...
Osteria La Traviata (via Urbana 5/c) +39.051.331298 [closed Sunday]Easily our favorite place in Bologna - the owners are charming, the food is typically brilliant, the atmosphere is remarkably welcoming, and if you're lucky, they'll have the mortadella-stuffed ravioli (if you're not, its ok, everything else is just about as good too!).
Some of our pictures are here.
Vicolo Colombina (vicolo Colombina 5/B) +39.051.233919 [closed Sunday]The interior does generate a wee bit of cognitive dissonance - its got the whole finnish/modern/clean look going right in the historic center of Bologna - but the food is exceptionally good, deeply satisfying, and oh yeah, its a "Slow Food" place. They also have a stellar selection of local wines, making the whole experience, well, happy-making :-)
Pictures from our visit here.
Its a bit out of the city-center (oh, 20 minutes walking if you feel like it, or a €10 cab-ride), and serves all the usual Bolognese specialities (which isn't to say thats bad. Its good. very good). The draw here is the wine - they have an excellent list, and can probably find you something different, unusual, (and, did I mention, excellent?) and drinkable.
Our new favorite place in Bologna. They have, somehow, managed to improve upon the already spectacularly high "default" level of cuisine in Bologna. Slow Food, the freshest possible ingredients, impeccably sourced, cooked with an eye to the seasons, oh, I could go on. Getting in involves a lot of phone-calls, but it is well worth it.
Cafe Zanarini (Piazza Galvani 1) +39.051.275.0041
Excellent place to go, have a drink, and people-watch in the evenings. They have quite a list of wines by the glass, some truly brilliant bubblies, and will happily make you your cocktail of choice. Whats more, they have quite the spread of munchies laid out to go with your drink (apertivo) - though, given that you're in Bologna, you probably want to stay away from it in favor of going somewhere for dinner :-)
Zii Margherita (Via Guglielmo Oberdan 24/2) +39.051.222.507
Quite possibly the best Neapolitan pizza in Bologna. And, definitely in the running for the best pizza you'll ever have. Need I say more?
Busseto
Trattoria Campanini (via Roncole Verdi 136) +39.052.492569 [closed Monday]
Slow food. Local
Calestano
Locanda Mariella (Frazione Fragno 59) +39.052.552102 [closed Monday, Tuesday]
Country-style
(review here)
Casalfiumanese
Ristorante Valsellustra (via Valsellustra 16) +39.054.2684073 [closed Thursday]
Country-style
Coloreto
Trattoria Ai Due Platani (Strada Communale Budellungo 104/a) +39.052.1645626 [closed Monday night & Tuesday]
Colorno
Al Vedel (Località Vedole 68) +39.052.1816169 [closed Monday, Tuesday]
Culatello di Zibello.
Ferrara
Al Brindisi (Via Guglielmo degli Adelardi 11) +39.053.2209142
Oldest wine bar in the world
Fontanelle
Trattoria Osteria da Ivan (via Villa 24) +39.052.1870113
Country-style. Also hotel.
(review here)
Imola
San Domenico (via Saatchi) +39.054.229000 [closed Monday, Dinner on Sunday]
Lance & Julie have been. 2 Michelin stars
Modena
They've got only four tables (and a large community table, usually booked up), but this is definitely a "you have got to to" kinda place. It is classic Modena/Emilia-Romagna cuisine, impeccably and honestly done, with bright clean flavors, and - of course - salumi from their own salumeria.
Be sure to make reservations as far ahead as you can!
Incidentally, the actual entrance is at the end of a back-alley - viccolo squallore - and pretty unmarked). Instead, go to Salumeria Giusti on via Luigi Carlo Farini 46 and they'll let you into the back/lunch room.
Pictures here, and a review here
Viarolo di Trecasali
Trattoria la Porta di Felino (via Provinciale Viarolo 103) +39.052.1836839 [closed Sunday, Wednesday]
Country-style.
Polesine Parmense
Al Cavallino Bianco (via Sbrisi 3) +39.052.496136 [closed Tuesday]
Country-style
Ravenna
Al Rustichello di Marozzi Erm (via Maggiore 21) +39.054.436043 [closed Saturday lunch, Sunday]
Home cooking
They've got a fairly typical (excellent though!) selection of Emilia-Romagna classics, along with some of more coastal touches. The wine list is excellent - and inexpensive - all the better for us :-)
Oh, its also a Slow Food place, and the sourcing is impeccable - in particular, during truffle season
Pictures here from one of our trips.
San Pietro in Casale
Trattoria Tubino (via V. Pescerelli 98) +39.051.811484 [closed Sunday]
Slow food. (a review here)
Savigno
Da Amerigo dal 1934 (via Guglielmo Marconi 14-16) +39.051.6708326 [closed Monday]
Country-style
Scandiano
Osteria in Scandiano (Piazza Boiardo Matteo Maria 9) +39.052.2857079 [closed Thursday]
Slow food. Country-style.
Spilamberto
Da Cesare (via San Giovanni 38) +39.059.784259 [
Zibello
It is a B&B - ok, a B&"Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner". The (3rd generation thereof) owner cures his own culatello in a shed in the back of the house, and you can pretty much only get the culatello here (EU regulations, etc.)
The food is spectacular, the people are charming, nonna makes the pasta, the rooms are surprisingly modern/comfortable, and they only take cash.
And yes, the culatello does get eaten with butter!
Pictures of our trip here, and also review here, and here.
Notes
"Country-style" restaurants are very highly recommended for "authentic" Emilia-Romagna
cuisine
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