Where to Eat in Rome
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BOOK
- David Downie: The Terroir Guides: Food, Wine, Rome. David is our patron saint when it comes to Italian food. We ate our way through Liguria based on his book 'bout that area, and thanks to him, have had two of the best dining experiences ever. You'll also note that quite a few of the places below are in his book, which isn't surprising because they tend to show up in pretty much anyone's list of 'the real, real places to go in Rome'. Do note however, that - with a few exceptions - most of the places are more local than touristic, i.e., you'll be rubbing shoulders w/ people who've been eating there for the last twenty years (or quite possibly, far longer).
Note:
- Reservations are always useful. If in doubt, make one (if they take 'em). Depending on the time of the day, you will almost certainly *not* get a table if you just show up
- Lunch typically is kinda rushed. By this, I mean "you order, it shows up moments later". Which is because most of the places serve people with jobs, and - believe it or not - they actually need to get back to work. That said, they will not rush you out the door. Once they've served you, you're pretty much left alone, till you ask for coffee, at which point your coffee will show up, and a few minutes later, the cheque.
- A word about the cheque. Most (ok, almost all) the time, you don't pay at the table. The host(ess) will be sitting up by the door, or at the counter, w/ a cash-register. You head over and pay there. Sometimes, they might leave the bill at the table, and you take it there. If in doubt, Dove si paga (my bad italian for "where do i pay") works.
- Ask them about the food (if you can). They'll happily describe it for hours!
- The house wine is almost always perfect for whatever you're ordering. Romans take their wine seriously. Almost as - if not more - seriously as they take their food. So, serving plonk is Just Not An Option. We typically get 0.5 litres (2/3rd of a bottle?) 'tween the two of us, and its just the right amount for lunch or dinner.
- Learn to like amaro. Thats a (various shades of bitter) after-dinner digestivo, which goes down brilliantly, and really, *really* helps cut the richness of roman cuisine. Its also part of the reason to sticking to 0.5l of wine, you'll be doing at least one swig of amaro after dinner.
- Learn to actually order the daily special. Its typically based on both the canonical food (romans have their daily food. e.g. Thursday is gnocchi, Saturday is trippa, etc.) and what the chef (who is probably also the owner, and/or the mom or grandma) picked up at the market that morning. Either way you win - it'll be spectacular.
- No cappuccino after noon! Really! Do Remember this!
- Espresso is called coffee. What you drink here is called Cafe Americano there. They'll happily serve you some, but its just espresso with hot water added.
Restaurants by Location:
Da Sergio: (Viccolo delle grotte 27. 06.686.4293) Somewhat loud, bustling. Very much a place where one starts the evening - go out, get dinner, hang out, then hit the clubs/whatever. Lamb chops to die for.
Antico Forno Marco Roscioli - (Bakery - Via dei chiavari 34) Best (best!) Pizza Bianca that you'll ever have. The nearby restaurant of the same name is also really really good
Sora Lella (Via de Ponte Quatro Capi. 06.686.1601). Fine dining. its (brief lived) sister restaurant in NY was our favourite place while it lasted - we went there virtually every week. Anything there is brilliant, but the Coda (alla Vaccinara) is spectacular. Simone (to Nikki's riht) is usually found in the front of the house, and Mauro (to my right) is usually working wonders in the kitchen.
Pantheon / Piazza Navona
Enoteca Corsi (Via Del Gesu 87. 06.679.0821) Rustic, family owned, intimate, and overall wonderful. Amazing carbonara. Also a wine-shop
Da Gino (Vicolo Rosini 4, 06.6873.434) Old school hangout for the peeps from Parliament (which is just around the corner). Don't be put off though, this is arguably the definitive trattoria experience, and pretty much a must. Its a weird refuge from the tourists who are just around the corner (even though you are one). What to get? Doesn't matter - just ask the waiter, and sit back.
Da Gino (Vicolo Rosini 4, 06.6873.434) Old school hangout for the peeps from Parliament (which is just around the corner). Don't be put off though, this is arguably the definitive trattoria experience, and pretty much a must. Its a weird refuge from the tourists who are just around the corner (even though you are one). What to get? Doesn't matter - just ask the waiter, and sit back.
Esquilino
Trattoria Monti (Via di San Vito 13, 06-446-6573): Hearty, simple (but spectacular) trattoria fare. In many ways, the epitome of Roman cuisine
L'Antico Forno (Bakery - Via della scrofa 33) Rustic cookies and breads. Different types of pizza bianca, which are all great (ask for it at the 'done-ness' level that you want). The Best (best!) Pizza Bianca in the city. (And yes, so is Roscioli above...)
Caffe Sant' Eustachio (Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82). Best. Coffee. Ever. Be sure to go to the correct caffe (its the one with the antique roaster in the back, and the screens so that you can't see how they make the coffee. Its also mobbed). They roast their own (single estate, etc.) coffee in the back of the cafe in an antique wood-fired roast which is a sight to behold.
Seriously.
Best. Coffee. Ever.
Trattoria da Ugo al Grano (Via di ripetta 32. 06.321.4883). More classic food, w/ brilliant bucatini all'amatriciana.
Gusto (Via della Frezza 23/16. 06.322.6273). Looks like a modern/trendy wine-bar, but don't let this fool you. The food is brilliant, with a long list of the classics, they have a bajillion wines by the glass, and they have a loooong list of snacks (salumi, etc.) all of which are impeccably sourced.
Il Gelato di San Crispino (via della panetteria 42). Yeah, yeah. And looks clinically modern too. And its next to Trevi. And its a 'Name'. Still ridiculously good tho' - go figure.
Monti/Quirinale/Termini
Est, Est, Est, Fratelli Ricci (Via Genova 32. 06.488.1107). Mixed hangout (locals and tourists) w/ good pizza, good specials (whatever they happen to be), and great antipasti.
Giggetto Pizzeria (Via Alessandria 43/49). Expensive but brilliant pizza. Can get both roman and neapolitan styles.
Ghetto
La Taverna del Ghetto: (Via del Portico Ottavia 8. 06.688.09771) Classic Jewish Roman fare. Don't be put off by the 'touristic' appearance. Its actually great, and pretty authentic. And, the Carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes to you) are sublime, addictive, and strangely enough, quite light.
Testaccio
Ne arte, ne parte: (via lucca della robbia 15. 06.575.0297) Roughly translates to 'No great shakes'. A great
place to go with a few others, absolutely friendly, and food to die for.
Trastevere
Da Enzo (via dei vascellari 29. 06.581.8355). Very local. They do all the weekly 'wheel' classics - just get whatever the day's thing is. Baccala is great, and the desserts are outstanding.
Fior di luna Gelato e cioccolato (Via della lungaretta 96). Some of the best gelato in Rome. (note that most of the gelato in rome is some of the best gelato in rome :-) )
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